
Patagonia
Patagonia is an incredible place. But I gotta say, it isn't for everyone. The weather can be rough, even in their summer (our winter). We went in January, and encountered wind and rain most days on the trip. Let's just say there is a reason the Patagonia clothing company was created and named after this region. This will not be a summer vacation type place where you have shorts and t-shirts on. You are in the elements hiking and viewing some of the most rugged terrain in the world. If you are still up for the trip. Read on.
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Length of time: 2 weeks
Dates: January, 2025
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Weather | Packing | Itinerary | Hotels
The Weather
The weather in Patagonia is no joke in January (their summer, our winter). You can have four seasons of weather in a day and you need to prepare for it. Clouds are constantly morphing into systems. It might be raining in one valley, sunny where you are standing, and snowing in another direction. I asked our guide who had been there for 12 years if there was ever a bluebird day in the summer and she said no “there are always clouds, but that is the fun; clouds are part of the beauty.” The weather changes quickly. And there is a lot of wind – like don’t stand near a cliff or you will be blown off type gusts. Our guide said that it is only windy in the summer. I also asked if the wind had a name like “the Santa Anas” or “the Mistral” and she said no. “it’s just Patagonia.” The wind is serious. I always say there is no bad weather, there is only bad gear. Wind is the exception. It is an x factor that is difficult to explain unless you have experienced it. Prepare for it because you will experience it in Patagonia.
Patagonia Packing List
We went to Patagonia for 8 days and Buenos Aires for 3 and fit in carry on luggage. Here are some tips so you can pack efficiently too. Note that we did not camp. We stayed in very nice hotels. People were still in their hiking gear at dinner. There might not be laundry in the park, ask your hotel. Patagonia is not a fashion scene. Only bring gear that keeps you comfortable.
The type of hiking we prepared for
On a typical day, we hiked 2-3 hours and then sat for lunch. We then moved to another hiking location. We were never three hours from our 4 x 4. Some hikes were difficult, most hikes involved elevation. I would have liked to do full day hikes, but I wasn’t in charge of booking this trip. I think if I were doing full day, 6-8 hour hikes, I would have had the same pack, just more water and snack bars. I probably would have added a rain cover for my backpack. When it rained hard, I left my pack in the car and wore all my layers on really rainy hikes.
Packing
Whether hiking short or long hikes, you need to bring layers and have a backpack that can fit layers if you get some hot weather. You don’t need a lot of each item. But I do suggest bringing all the items listed below.
My daily back pack included:
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Rain jacket and rain pants (fully waterproof, not water resistant)
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Puffy jacket
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Fleece
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Sunglasses
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Readers
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Sunscreen stick
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Bug stick (though no bugs bothered us, I hear this is possible)
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Lip balm
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Water bottle (they have filtered water at hotels that you can use to fill your bottle)
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Snack bar
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Warm hat (baseball hats blow off)
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Gloves (two pairs)
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Buff
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Didn't bring but wish I had
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Rain cove for pack (didn't bring but wish I had)
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Hiking poles (many hotels have these for loan. I have never hiked with poles. But our guide said that poles take 30% of the weight off your legs. Poles aren’t just for balance; I found this intriguing. If you have knee issues (which I do), or are going for long hikes, you might want to bring poles. Note, that when you use poles, your hands are exposed. Make sure your gloves are warm as well as windproof and rain proof -- or bring two pairs. Also, make sure your backpack has straps to accommodate the poles when you don’t want them.
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More Detail
Rain and wind layer. This is includes both pants and a jacket. BOTH MUST BE WATERPROOF! I suggest this layer be newer so it truly has fresh water protection.
Light rain/wind jacket. I suggest a nonbrand thin jacket with a hood that has pit zips. I used my zippers quite a bit. It gets hot in the jacket when you hike and it is nice to release the heat when weather allows. I bought mine oversized (a size up). This is great because it fits layers underneath. Also, a decent jacket should have elastic ties around your head so you can keep the sideways rain from entering your face and traveling down your back. I didn’t use the ties at the bottom of my coat to keep heat in and wind out, but I was very glad for the extra long sleeves with Velcro -- I appreciated the extra wet protection around my gloves. I sucked my hands into my sleeves when it rained and it kept my hands dry. It only rained sideways one day, but man – I was glad to be dry. The jacket was mainly used for wind protection. The wind can be very cold and damp. It whips down the valleys and glaciers with a Chicago level chill at times. Your jacket can whip around loudly so its nice if you can synch the hood down around your face to keep the wind out from rattling your hood around and off.
Light rain/wind pants. These pants are great if they have zips on the side so you can put them on and off easily. Mine had two-way zips. This allowed me to use open a foot-long gap if I wanted air or zip tops up or down so I could easily take the pants off over dirty boots. They were just elastic at the top.
Head
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Skull cap. You want a medium weight skull cap that fits in your pocket and can fit in your jacket hood. No pompoms.
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Buff. A light weight buff is a fantastic add. I thought there was no way in hell I was going to wear one, and I threw one in at last minute. I used it a lot. Bring the lightest weight one you can find. It took the edge off wind burn, acted as a cover for wind in my ears when I didn’t want a skull cap, added needed warmth, and could also act as a hat. I wasn’t winning red carpet awards, but I was comfortable.
Sunglasses. Bring glasses that fit in your pockets. You are constantly taking them on and off. It might be nice to bring a tiny glasses bag protector for you glasses so they don’t get scratched.
Feet
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Boots. I always just hike in sneakers. I find hiking boots to be too stiff. But I didn’t want my feet to be wet all week, so I took advice and got boots. You need your boots to be waterproof. My husband wore Salomon waterproof mid-height boots and those failed. His feet were soaked. My friend, her husband, and I went to Danner and bought boots. Our feet were dry. Both us girls got the military style boots, the men’s was a leather waterproof boot. I liked our boots because you could wear them untied to the ankle and they could get air. Or you could tie them tight for more support and weather proofing. They also allowed movement - they bent with our feet. Some boots are like wearing tissue boxes. I didn’t like that you had to lace the lace through the hole instead of a hook so it took time to fully lace an unlace. But, other than that, the boots were great. Leather and goretex I think are the best combo.
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Socks. I brought four pairs of Danner wool socks. I would also advise wool because they dried fast.
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Sneakers, I brought running shoes as well. I wore these in and around the hotel and during outings before coming to Patagonia. You want something to wear while your dirty boots are airing out.
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Sandals (these were for Buenos Aires, but I also wore them to dinner). These Mephistos are my favorite travel sandal. I was able to walk 15,000 steps a day in Buenos Aires in these things. They are ugly but I appreciated having my toes out. If you are just going to Patagonia, don’t bother with these.
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I don’t think you need flip flops. If the hotel had a spa, there were slippers.
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Layers
Top
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Waist-length down puffer. I have this fantastic light weight down puffer from Canada Goose that scrunches down to the size of a small loaf of bread. I wore that most of the trip. It has stretchy side panels which allow for unrestricted movement.
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Fleece jacket. I also wore this daily
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T-shirt. I brought 5 t-shirts. My friend wore the equivalent of long sleeve t-shirts but I think they were wool. This layer is rarely seen so wear what makes you comfortable.
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Bra. You don’t need yoga tops or sports bras unless that is your jam for hiking
Bottom
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Hiking pants. I brought 2 pairs of hiking pants. I think the best ones were the more heavy duty ones. There are quite a lot of pricker bushes when hiking and the heavier material repelled those.
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I saw some people with reinforced Gortex or rip stop patches at the ankles. I truly think this is a way to go if you are going for full or multi-day hikes.
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Lululemon light weight hikers. There were very thin and did wear them. But there were tiny rips in them by the end of the first hike. The rain pants would have protected from this, but it wasn’t windy or rainy our first hike. They layer felt fine from a temperature stand point, but the prickers had their way with my pants.
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There is no need to bring shorts. I brought two pairs (this was wishful thinking)
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I brought long underwear but never wore it. It was just a set of Lululemon yoga tights. My friend wore hers some days, but it gets warm under layers when you hike.
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Underwear. I always pack an insane amount of underwear. It's tiny. I brought 10 pairs so I could change after hiking. I also did laundry.
Gloves
I brought two small pairs and recommend doing so. One was water resistant. The other pair was those cheap knit ones. I got mine at a Kraken hockey game; they were probably 30 cents. BUT I was glad to have both. The knit gloves are more comfortable than the rain resistant ones. And when the resistant got wet, I had my second pair that dried quickly.
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General wear.
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Jeans. I love jeans and always travel with them. My “dress up”outfit was a very lightweight relaxed fit, stretch pair of jeans. I wore these to most dinners.
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Sweater. I brought a fashionable cashmere hoodie loose-fit sweater that I could hike in or wear to dinner. I wore it almost every night.
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PJs. I just brought a small pajama set that was basically a t-shirt and boxer. It was warm enough at night and if I was cold, I could put on a fleece. I never had to do this.
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I brought a long sleeve under layer. I wore it once under my t-shirt on a particularly cold day. I am not sure I needed it.
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General outfits. If you continue to Santiago or Buenos Aires, pack a separate packing cube with 2-3 outfits. It is hot there. I would recommend a skirt because a couple nicer shirts and one easy travel dress. I wore my dress twice in Patagonia to dinner that I accessorized with a scarf and a long necklace. We stayed in very nice hotels the day before and after the park. Jeans would have probably been fine, however. The hotels just outside the park have cruise ship people coming from Antarctica and they tend to look nicer. I wore the dress two more times in Buenos Aires for our Michelin Star restaurant outings.
Our Patagonia Itinerary
Punta Arenas, Chile. You have to start somewhere so we flew into Punta Arenas. We gave ourselves a buffer of 24 hours in case there was weather that caused our flight to get cancelled - it is January after all in the states. We got there with only a few delays. So we checked out the city and did a penguin tour.
HOTEL: Yegua Loca (Jan 7-8)
Small boutique hotel. There aren’t really a lot of options in town. We were happy with this hotel, it was incredibly unique. It’s got charm, is close to town, and has a great restaurant. You should eat there even if you don’t stay.
Things we did.
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Cemetery which is a a bit of a drive out of town.
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The Nao Victoria Museum is also a drive. This was pretty cool. The owner recreated a to scale replica of actual ships of Magellan. It isn’t seaworthy, but care was taken to recreate the beams, scale and feel. There is also a replica of Shackleton’s tiny lifeboat that 6 people used to sail 800 miles across the Drake Passage. If you read the book or like history or ships in general, this museum is a treat.
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Touch the toe of the center Hernando Magellan statue in town, this means you will return to the city.
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There is a long boardwalk along the town and you can run, ride bikes or walk. The city is safe and I would have felt comfortable walking alone as a female. BUT there is WIND. Lots of wind so it isn’t a comfortable walk. We only walked part way, but if weather is nice, it would be fun to walk longer.
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Penguin Tour to Magdalena Island & Marta Island tour (6:30 am - 12:00 pm). I think this was worth doing. This is not a glamorous trip. You are on a tour bus, that takes you an hour ride to a boat. I enjoyed the hour and a half boat ride to Marta Island where the penguins nest. It was cool to see the islands from the water and be in the Straight of Magellan. In January, the babies were on Marta Island. They men start making nests in November. The babies hatch in December so the babies were about a month old and were large and fluffy. The birds aren’t scared of humans. I believe the penguins leave in March. So there are no penguins March – November. The penguin walk is very regulated for obvious reasons. It is a breeding ground. You need to stay on the path and have a strict hour timeline to view the birds before getting back on the boat. We stopped to view sea lions and saw dolphins on the way to and from the island.
Day 3: Transfer to Singular Patagonia Hotel (3 hrs) @ 11 outside Porto Natalas.
The following is a private trip that was organized by the tour company Quasar. We had two Toyota four-runners and a single guide that switched between the cars. We really appreciated having a guide because she 1) knew where she was going, 2)knew roads that were closed 3) had the weather dialed in and 4) could pick the best times to see the things we wanted to and avoid the crowds.
Nights 3-4 Singular Hotel (thumbs up)
The Singular Hotel is amazing and is a destination in itself.
Day 4: Estancia La Peninsula Ranch Day (full day) @ 8:30 am
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We took a two hour boat to a ranch, rode horses, and then had the most amazing lamb lunch. The day was brilliant. I highly recommend doing this if you can.
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Weather can cause this trip to be cancelled. We lucked out and had a fantastic day.
Day 5-7 Kau Rio Serrano
Kau is a small boutique hotel in a very small outside the park but extremely close to hikes. The Explora Hotel inside the park has very dramatic views but is a bit dated. I really loved the quiet of Kau (we had the whole place to ourselves one night). But wow, the Explora sure has better views. Both are close to hikes. I feel you want to stay in the park or as close as possible. The roads are dirt and are rough to travel on.
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Day 5: Torres Del Paine Park Hike & Laguna Azul Hike (brought a box lunch). The Laguna Azul Hike is along the lake and not difficult. We went out a couple hours then back on the same trail. There were low clouds so we didn’t see the stunning view.
Day 6: Grey Glacier Beach & Peninsula Hike + Mirador Cuernos Hike @ 8:30 am (brought a box lunch). We had THE WORST weather and wind for the Grey Glacier Beach and Peninsula Hike. Sideways rain and 50mph winds. It was so windy that busses were stopped from coming into the park. We soldiered on and experienced the Patagonia weather at it’s “finest.” Our guide said she had seen worse. We were all absolutely drenched. Most of our rain gear held up. One person’s “waterproof boots” turned out to not be waterproof.
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Day 7: Mirador Condor Hike + another Hike I can’t remember
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Day 8-9 Hotel Eolo (thumbs up)
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Day 8: Drive to El Calafate on the Argentina side @ 7:30 am – this is a LONG ass drive. Brutal. It is very boring and flat with zero gas stations. Our guide was met with a car and gas cans to get us started. Also, the Argentina border is a pain. Our guide timed it to avoid busses. We went to the Glacier Museum near our hotel. Don’t go. It’s not very good. We are from Seattle, have travelled to glaciers before so this likely tainted our enthusiasm.
Day 9. Moreno Glacier Navigation + Boardwalks @ 8:30 am [BRING BOX LUNCH] This was absolutely amazing. The Moreno Glacier is absolutely massive! We saw major calving events. Massive chunks broke off and plunged into the water right in front of us. It was incredible. Worth noting, this glacier is relatively stable and has maintained its size compared to others. As we all know, most glaciers are shrinking. We took a boat and did the hike. I recommend doing both.
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Day 10: Half-Day Horseback Ride + Walk around El Calafate @ 10 am The horseback ride was supposed to be to the lake to see the flamingos. But this year, the flamingos never arrived. It is a mystery to both the Chilean and Argentinian guides. “Where are the flamingos?” The town of Calafate was ok. It was fun to walk around in the small one street town. It is full of tourists. We mainly just went pub hopping. Our favorite was La Fabrica Cerveceria off the beaten path.
Guide or No Guide
Do you need a guide?
If you are doing multi-day or several full day hikes, and aren’t expert hikers, I recommend a guide. You certainly don’t need one in Patagonia if you are doing short hikes. That said, we had a guide (organized through Quasar).
Pro of having a guide in Patagonia
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Some roads are closed (both getting to the park and in the park) and Google maps doesn’t register these closures because the change so frequently. BUT the guides know.
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GAS! There are no gas stations in the park. Our guide was met by a fellow employee to gas up the car with cans. I am not sure where the closest station is, but I have almost run out of gas in the middle of Chile before. Maybe there aren't a lot of stations.
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They know the weather. Patagonia is a master class in micro climates. It might be windy and rainy over the ridge, but sunny at a separate location. We did hikes that had the best weather. There is no sense in hiking to the top of something only to be fogged in and wet all the way through your rain gear. All the guides communicate via WhatsApp. And they have a weather app that I have never seen that predicts microclimates within the park.
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They can keep you away from crowds. Most of our hikes had few people. Our guide knew when the busses and hotel “crowds” would come. There are crowds because there are not a lot of short hikes. The area is protected and they only manage so many trails.
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If something happens to your four wheel drive, you don’t have to deal with it.
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The border can be difficult if you are crossing into Argentina. Timing is key (it can be crowded) and the Argentinian agents like to give people a hard time.
But you don’t need a guide
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If you stay at the hotel, you can sign up for hikes (most of these are not private)
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You can likely sign up for a private guide if you like at a hotel, ask in advance of your stay
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A guide book will show you the hikes available.
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Sign up for the glacier boats. Sometimes they get cancelled due to wind, but they are worth the trip.
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It is safe in the park. No one is going to rob you. Pumas don’t attack people (and you are lucky to even see one).
Hotels
Punta Arenas
Yegua Loca (thumbs up)
Small boutique hotel. There aren’t really a lot of options in town. We were happy with this hotel, it was incredibly unique. It’s got charm, is close to town, and has a great restaurant. You should eat there even if you don’t stay.
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Getting to Patagonia
Singular Hotel (thumbs up) near Punta Natales
The Singular Hotel is amazing and is a destination in itself.
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In the Park
We stayed in the Kau Rio Serrano. It is a small boutique hotel with exceptional food just outside the park (but extremely close to hikes). The Explora Hotel inside the park has very dramatic views but is a bit dated. I really loved the quiet of Kau (we had the whole place to ourselves one night). But wow, the Explora sure has better views. Explora also had more activities and guides dedicated to the hotel. Both are close to hikes. I feel you want to stay in the park or as close as possible. The roads are dirt and are rough to travel on.​
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Argentina Side
Hotel Eolo (thumbs up)
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